There are a multiple reasons to change the shift cable on your eBike.

First we will look at reasons why you can be having shifting issues, and then we will get into the repair/replacement process.

This repair is made much easier with a bike stand, putting a bike upside-down to do repairs can scratch and damage components

Note: You will need to follow the same steps as replacing a cable to replace your shift cable housing

 

TROUBLESHOOTING SHIFTING ISSUES:
**INSERT ADJUSTING SHIFTING LINK TO PAGE**

• Check that your chain has been lubed and is not dry,
  this will dramatically affect shifting performance
• Check that your derailleur hanger is not bent,
  you will see that the derailleur will not be in line with gears and may even be at a noticable angle
• Check that your derailleur limits and cable tension is set properly.
• Check the cable housing for corrosion or rust, if you have had your bike for multiple seasons

(Cables generally have a life span of 1,500-2,500 miles or 2,414-4,023Km on eBikes, less when shifting under heavily weighted conditions)

 

 

TOOLS NEEDED FOR REPLACING THE SHIFT CABLE:

• Cable/housing cutter
• 9mm wrench or socket/driver
• Replacement cable
• Cable crimp
  Optional:
• Pliers
• Bike stand

If replacing shift cable housing:

• Flush cutters or diagonal cutters (for zip-ties)
• Cable/housing cutters
• Small pick
• 4mm shift housing
• Ferrules for housing
• zip-ties (for reattaching housing to bike frame and to re-bundle housing with brake lines and electrical wiring)

 

 

REPLACING THE CABLE / HOUSING:

First, shift into the hardest gear (7 on the shifter) with no cable tension on the derailleur,
in the cog furthest out from center of the bike and pedal forward on the bike to get the chain on that same gear.

Remove your old cable
(You will need to cut off the cable crimp off of the cable to be able to remove it from the bike)

• Loosen the cable pinch bolt on the derailleur
  (9mm wrench or socket/driver)
• Pull the cable housing away from the derailleur and out of the barrel adjuster
  (This will also reduce friction when installing the new cable, having a bend in your housing can result in the cable getting stuck inside the housing)
• Move to the shifter, now we will work from the shifter / handlebar end of the cable
• Pull the cable housing away from the shifter, you will notice the cable is now exposed
• Grabbing the cable from the housing side of the shifter to the opposite,
  pushing the cable through the shifter until the cable head is exposed and can be extracted

If you remove your ferrules on your housing and don't see corrosion/rust and or the inner wiring sticking out from the outer casing,
skip to installing the new cable install section of this page, next we will go through the steps of replacing housing followed by cable install

 

 

REPLACING CABLE HOUSING:

With shift cable removed

• Unwind the cable wrap keeping all of the electronics and housing together near the handlebar (you will reuse this)
• cut the zip-ties securing the cable housing to the frame

Note: If you need to cut zip-ties that bundle all the housing/wiring together underneath the bottom bracket shell, use caution to not damage or cut any electrical wiring, this would not be covered under warranty and would require replacement parts

After removing zip-ties and the cable wrap, you should be able to remove the cable housing from the bike

Preparing the new housing

• Use your original housing as a reference when cutting new housing,
  cut at the same length or slightly longer if needed
• Deburr new cable housing to ensure long life of housing with improved performance
• Use a pick to spread the inner housing liner so that the cable can be inserted
• Add the housing ferrules push them on fully,
  pushing the housing/ferrule into a hard surface (like a table or bench) will help eliminate housing settling during "break in process"

Re-install the new housing: (The Groove, The Flex, and The Outcross. For instructions in regards to "The Stride" see below for routing instructions)

• Using the same cable/housing routing method, use your zip-ties to synch down and keep the housing where you want it,

but leave enough slack to be able to move the housing if needed (no need to cut/trim zip-ties until everything is tight)

Continue new shift cable install section

The Stride housing installation requires a couple extra steps:
WARNING: Be sure to the bike is powered off, look at your display, and ensure that it is not powered on
(Hold MODE "M" to turn off the bike, your display will then power down and it will be safe to remove your battery)

• Remove battery from the bike frame
• Insert new cable housing through the rubber grommet in the frame
• Ensure that the housing goes into the routing channel that runs below the battery compartment
  Note: The hole in the frame in the battery compartment, is to help guide the housing into the lower channel,
  the housing does not run through the battery compartment
• The housing should exit the frame near the bottom bracket shell along with all the other housing/wiring
• Securely zip-tie the housing to the frame and to the other housing/wiring (at the bottom bracket shell)

Continue to new shift cable install section

 

 

NEW SHIFT CABLE INSTALL

• Insert shift cable tip through shifter until cable head is full seated in shifter lever ​​​
• Insert shift cable tip into cable housing, continue feeding until the cable comes out at the other end of the housing
• Route the shift cable through the barrel adjuster on the derailleur
• Adjust the barrel adjuster so that it is 4-6 quarter turns from being fully threaded into the derailleur
  (The barrel adjust threads into the derailleur (clockwise) to remove tension, and is unthreaded from the derailleur (Counter-clockwise) to add tension and compression to the housing)
• Secure the shift cable to the derailleur using the groove in the clamping plate, and the 9mm nut attached to the derailleur
• Cut the excess cable, leave 1-1/2in, or about 40mm of cable that will stick out past the derailleur nut and clamping plate
• Put the cable crimp over the cable end, and lightly crimp with your pliers, cable/housing cutters, or diagonal cutters

 

 

TEST YOUR SHIFTING

Check that your shifting is functioning properly.
If you need to add/remove cable tension and your barrel adjuster cannot be turned further, shift to the hardest gear (7 on the shifter)

and release the derailleur nut/clamping plate, try another amount of barrel adjuster turns from being fully threaded into the derailleur,

and re-fasten the shift cable to the derailleur with the nut/clamping plate

 

Please feel free to contact us for further help or assistance!

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